Dark & Lovely Moisture Plus No-Lye Relaxer

Dark & Lovely
Lab tested
1 Poor
View on Amazon

Summary

Dark & Lovely Moisture Plus No-Lye Relaxer scores 1/100. Silent Spring Institute confirmed via ingredient analysis that this product contains parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben — all suspected endocrine disruptors), phthalates (DEP and DEHP, hidden under the generic 'Fragrance' label and tied to reproductive toxicity), and the formaldehyde-releasing preservative DMDM Hydantoin. On top of that, the relaxing chemistry itself is highly caustic — the calcium hydroxide / guanidine carbonate combo permanently breaks the hair's disulfide bonds and is associated in epidemiological studies (Boston University Black Women's Health Study, NIEHS Sister Study) with elevated risks of uterine and breast cancer in frequent users.

At a glance

Beneficial ingredients 1
Harmful ingredients 7
Owned by L'Oréal SA
Category Hair Care

Contaminants 2

Source: Silent Spring Institute

Diethyl Phthalate (DEP — hidden under Fragrance, Silent Spring Institute confirmed)
Detected
High

Detected at a high level — at or above health-based exposure limits. Regular exposure at this level is a genuine health concern. DEP is the most common phthalate in personal care products, used as a fragrance carrier. Human studies link DEP exposure to altered hormone levels, reduced sperm quality, and developmental effects in children.

Silent Spring Institute confirmed Diethyl Phthalate (DEP) in this product, hidden under the generic 'Fragrance' or 'Parfum' ingredient label.

Di Phthalate (DEHP — hidden under Fragrance, Silent Spring Institute confirmed)
2-ethylhexyl
High

Detected at a high level — at or above health-based exposure limits. Regular exposure at this level is a genuine health concern.

Silent Spring Institute confirmed DEHP in this product, hidden under the generic 'Fragrance' label.

Key ingredients 8

Methylparaben (Silent Spring Institute confirmed)
Very Bad

Silent Spring Institute documented methylparaben in this product. Methylparaben is a synthetic preservative classified by the EU SCCS as a suspected endocrine disruptor with weak estrogen-mimicking activity. It has been detected in human breast tissue in biomonitoring studies. Hair relaxers are a particular concern because they are applied close to the scalp and absorbed efficiently.

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Ethylparaben (Silent Spring Institute confirmed)
Very Bad

Silent Spring Institute documented ethylparaben in this product. Ethylparaben shares the endocrine-disruption concerns of the paraben family and is restricted in the EU at concentrations above 0.4%.

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Butylparaben (Silent Spring Institute confirmed)
Very Bad

Silent Spring Institute documented butylparaben in this product. Butylparaben is the most strongly estrogenic of the common parabens and is banned in cosmetics in Denmark for use in children's products. EU restricts it at 0.14% maximum.

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DMDM Hydantoin (formaldehyde-releaser)
Very Bad

DMDM Hydantoin is a preservative that slowly releases formaldehyde — a Group 1 known human carcinogen (IARC) — in the product to prevent microbial growth. The formaldehyde release exposes scalp and respiratory tract during application. Banned or restricted in cosmetics in the EU and several US states.

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Calcium Hydroxide / Guanidine Carbonate (caustic relaxer system)
Bad

Calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate combine in the activator step to form guanidine hydroxide, the caustic relaxing agent that permanently breaks hair disulfide bonds. The high pH chemistry frequently causes scalp burns, lesions, and chemical injury. Epidemiological research (Boston University Black Women's Health Study, NIEHS Sister Study) has linked frequent chemical relaxer use to elevated risks of uterine and breast cancer.

See more about Calcium Hydroxide / Guanidine Carbonate (caustic relaxer system) →
Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) / Petrolatum
Bad

Mineral oil and petrolatum are petroleum-derived occlusives. Cosmetic-grade versions are generally low-risk on the skin but provide no nutritional benefit and may contain trace polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons depending on refining grade. They serve mainly as carrier base and moisture barrier in this product.

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Parfum (Fragrance)
Bad

Generic 'Parfum' or 'Fragrance' is an undisclosed mixture; in this product Silent Spring Institute specifically documented that it contains DEP and DEHP phthalates as fragrance fixatives.

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Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter)
Good

Shea butter is a beneficial natural emollient added to soften the relaxer's harshness. It cannot offset the documented endocrine disruptors, formaldehyde-releaser, or caustic relaxing chemistry.

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